If you have dabbled in Home Automation you’ve probably heard of Sonoff. They make all manner of home automation devices. I’ve been largely ambivalent towards them as I prefer Z-Wave devices and hackable outlets to power most of my home automation needs. But I kept READING ABOUT THEM. Everywhere you turn on the Home Automation sites people are talking about Sonoff and something called “Tasmota Firmware”.
I decided to see what all the fuss was about and ponied up the requisite $11 for a Sonoff RF from Amazon. I’ve been on a 433 MHz device kick lately and I like the fact that radio controlled devices can work even when the network goes down. As long as a Raspberry Pi is on that delivers that radio burst…….BOOM……the lights go on and off.
So I got one just to play with. The interesting thing to me is that not only is it 433 MHz radio controlled it also works with WiFI and if you flash it with Tasmota Firmware it will do MQTT as well. Okay, I’m getting slightly impressed here.
Last week I showed you how you can capture the remote codes for cheap radio controlled electrical outlets and this week the theme is 433 MHz MOTION SENSORS. With a properly configured motion detector you can then trigger that outlet. For example……..when you open the pantry door the light comes on………when you walk in the laundry room, the light comes on……..when someone presses the smart doorbell, the lights come on. Pretty handy stuff.
Most home automation motion sensors send TWO signals. One when they are tripped and one when they reset. Most of them will stay tripped for a predetermined amount of time. Usually for 2-4 minutes or so. Good idea to know the state of the motion detector BEFORE you buy it.
For example I have a motion detector with a 4 minute reset on it in my garage and laundry closet. That means that both of those lights that get triggered are staying on for 4 minutes whether I like it or not (unless I write some crazy code).
But some of these cheap sensors send ONE signal. “I’m ON” and that’s it. They don’t reset. That provides a challenge. This is one such sensor I bought (and DEFEATED).
It costs about $12 now and you can get them even cheaper. I got this for an outside sensor.
Anyway it does have some user control as inside there are two DIP switches. One sets the sensor state for 5 seconds or 5 minutes and the other one turns the LED indication it has been tripped on or off.
If you want to be stealthy, turn off the LED. I personally like the bad guys to know they got got.
Anyway before you can do this you must capture the code with a program called RTL_433. I discussed this in another blog.
RTL_433 And Home Assistant Set Up
MQTT 433 MHz Motion Sensor
Once your hardware is set up (an RTL-SDR device) you run this command on that pi to send THIS code below. The last part would only be necessary if your mosquitto MQTT server is on another device. Mine is.
Now that will take all the messages it receives from the SDR device (on 433.920 MHz) then it publishes a message on your MQTT server that looks like this:
Now we have to extract that data to make sure we hone in on this device (because I have multiple devices on this same MQTT Topic). In your HomeAssistant configuration.yaml file you add the following to create a binary sensor.
binary_sensor: - state_topic: home/rtl_433 name: Garage Motion value_template: > {% if value_json is defined and value_json.id == 924442 %} {{ value_json.state }} {% endif %} payload_on: 'motion' off_delay: 5 qos: 1
Whew! You can see I have it so it only takes information from sensor id #924442 and when the “state” = “motion” then it triggers the binary sensor. Then the line with:
off_delay: 10
Sets the sensor back to the OFF position after 10 seconds. So with a ONE signal sensor I can turn the state to OFF after how ever many seconds I want. That garage light will now go out after 1 minute or 2 minutes or 2 seconds……..whatever I want.
Well……It works PERFECTLY. Here’s what the tripped state looks like:
Now I can start making some automations to use with my $10 motion sensor. Open the pantry door……..the light comes on……….hence the name “Pantry Motion”.
Automations For 433 MHz Motion Sensor
So what I did here was to make an automation to turn on one of my inexpensive outlets. Eventually this will be tied to a smart light or smart switch. Right at this moment I have no smart light nor have installed a smart switch in the pantry. Changing the line of the entity_id in the action part of the code can turn basically any device on or off. Because the code above leaves the sensor state on for 10 seconds, running the automation means the “light” (in this case outlet) will be on for 1 minute. Pretty cool, huh?
automation 21:
alias: Den Outlet Motion Sensor
trigger:
platform: state
entity_id: binary_sensor.pantry_motion
to: 'on'
# condition:
# condition: state
# entity_id: sun.sun
# state: below_horizon
action:
service: switch.turn_on
entity_id: switch.den_outlet
automation 22:
- alias: Den Outlet Motion Sensor Off
trigger:
platform: state
entity_id: binary_sensor.pantry_motion
to: 'off'
for: '00:00:50'
action:
service: switch.turn_off
entity_id: switch.den_outlet
Notice that I have # marks in front of the condition statements. In many cases you wouldn’t want a light to come on until after dark. I left that in there to easily change it back if I find I don’t need the light on in the daytime, but hey, it is essentially a windowless closet.
Here’s a video of how it all works. I shortened the sensor time for the purpose of the video.
I’ve been dabbling with 433 MHz devices over the past few days and tying those devices in with my home automation software named HomeAssistant. A decent transmitter receiver kit will set you back a whopping $10 or so. I opted for this one.
It performs extremely well in a home environment and has great specs.
One of the gotchas of this device though is it comes with ABSOLUTELY NO DOCUMENTATION WHATSOEVER. You’d be hard pressed to find much useful on line as well. So that’s where I come in.
Fortunately the wiring is pretty basic and the pins are clearly marked on the back side of the circuit boards.
I have what I consider to be a pretty extensive Home Automation setup.
I use the program HomeAssistant on a Raspberry Pi3 with an Aeotech ZWave controller . Also I have some wifi devices such as a Nest Thermostat, Ring Doorbell, Ethernet Security Cameras, a WiFi Light Switch, and some smart light bulbs.
Hobbies are fun. Hobbies are hard. If you have a hobby you somehow or another want to document it for posterity. If you own widgets such as Swiss Army Knives, Coins, trinkets, whatever then still photography is probably your medium of choice to preserve and document your collection.
But, let’s face it. Most of us suck at photography. If only there were a way to use a computer to improve your photography skills…….oh wait, there is. It is called “Tethering” and tethering is nothing new. I can’t provide a history lesson but I know I’ve been doing it since the late 90’s or so and it probably came along right with the advent of digital cameras, whenever that was.
What’s a Spyserver? And why would you want one? Spyserver is a program for a Software Defined Radio (SDR) that allows you to access that radio from anywhere. It also allows you to share your radio from anywhere and you can likewise share other people’s SDR radios. Why would you want to do that?
First when the word “radio” comes to mind we tend to think of AM or FM radio only. An SDR device is so much more than that. It can literally listen to things from 0 kHz to 2 GHz or so. That’s EVERYTHING that you can think of that uses a radio signal. Short Wave, CB, Ham, pagers (yep they still use pagers), Police, Fire, EMS, the Space Shuttle flying overhead (not kidding), the tire pressure monitor sensors on your car, tracking aircraft, tracking ships, tracking weather balloons…………the list is almost endless.
I REALLY struggled hard to learn to use OP25 and once I figured It out I made a simple tutorial for myself to recreate on other computers and for others to use. On my blog it is one of the more active pages and almost every week I get emails from people requesting help getting it working. This is the page of instructions I made: (there are a couple more pages that are Raspberry Pi specific but you’ll have to poke around my blog to find them).
I would LOVE to help everybody but alas, I met a hot neighbor lady walking dogs a few months back and she’s cutting into my geek time! Trust me when I say that I’m not complaining!
Most of the time I find that many users are installing Ubuntu under Virtualbox in either Windows or on a Mac and this is one of the most common errors:
It was the best of decoders, it was the worst of decoders……… As you can tell I’m quite the literate bastard and highly up to speed on my Dickens.
I love digital signal decoding as it is almost something that you seemingly aren’t supposed to do, hence the attraction of it all. There are several hunks of software that can decode digital signals and each one has it’s strength and weaknesses. The ones I have dabbled around with are:
One of my favorite programs for decoding digital audio is DSDPlus. I’ve been using it a couple of years to dissect and decode SINGLE digital signals. Like for instance if I’m in the airport or airport hotel I can listen to DMR radio where the baggage handlers are talking to each other, or the mall cops are planning how to be real cops. Or you can hear the hotel staff on their radios which is sometimes really fun.
BUT…….DSDPlus also follows Digital Trunked Radio. That is where there is a Control Channel which is monitored and then the calls are “trunked” to available frequencies allowing for more users to use the system without confusion. Also users can be placed into Talk Groups which keeps down the confusion even more. Entire cities can use one radio system to control municipal services such as Police, Fire, EMS, Public Works, Events, etc.